Natural Wine In Rome: Here Is Where You Can Buy It, Know It And Taste It

March 9, 2020 by No Comments

Natural, artisan, true wine, wine ethical. No matter what you call it because it is virtually impossible to agree to all of the world of wine-making on the use of the term. The wine is “sustainable” is a trend that is changing the face of the enotavola in italy, with a new space in the market and in the city, in constant growth. Come wineries, but also restaurants and wine bars that offer them almost exclusively. And in this Rome is the most concrete example. In the meantime, however, the streets of those who love to drink well separate with regard to the use of the adjective. The furrow between those who drink wines produced with conventional methods and those who prefer the one without sulphur added, or with limited (if not excluded) use of pesticides, it would seem, at the moment, unbridgeable.

For grammar part, from the cellar to the table, the roman, the step was short, because, in the last ten years in the Capital have sprung up many addresses: wine bars with kitchens, real restaurants, wine bars where the majority of the shelves has declined to the natural. The lead to of these signs is definitely the Santeria, much loved in the city for the proposal is sophisticated and informal at the same time its nice bistro cooking Twenty years in via del Pigneto. She was born ten years ago, thanks to the Joy Of Paul and Alessandro Cignetti when these labels were not yet so widespread. Here fill in all the paper the small companies, Italian, Spanish, French, Portuguese, austrian and German combined with a fast food with ingredients well-chosen. For a few months the property has taken over the space next door with hidden garden – ex-Yakiniku – to turn it into a Santeria Sea. Always at Pigneto 2015 overlooking the Vineyard. Here the wine is in constant movement, based on the tastes of the owners – Antonella, Cecilia and Vincenzo – and on the meetings with the producers-made in the course of these years.

The Enoteca Bulzoni

Before Oil and Wine, then a wine shop with selection of food, from October 2017 is a wine bar with a kitchen and a historic Enoteca Bulzoni has been a frontrunner on the front of the wine artisans, so much cost you a fine in 2012, when two officials of the ministry of agriculture challenged to Alessandro and Riccaldo Bulzoni – the children who now lead the activities – the sale on the shelves of the labels called “natural”. To preside over the district of Monteverde Vecchio, instead, we think of more than four years Liter, a wine shop with kitchen, younger son of Coffee Propaganda (even here, in the paper, different natural wines). The focus on the drink, artisan and biodynamic has always been a prerogative of the house with the choice of drawing the whole list on this type of bottles. Also in this case, the owners decided to try their hand at a new project that is similar to the first: Litre Kitchen Pigneto with a focus on gourmet over the Years “cream” i.e. the kitchen of the ’70s and ’80s.

Among the insignia frequented by lovers of good drinking, there is the Sorì San Lorenzo. Italy, France, Germany, the bubbles and natural wines fill this enotavola was born almost seven years ago: a few tables, a couple of seats at the bar and the wine list is constantly evolving, with interesting proposals that are told by the owner Pasquale Livieri. Sori is ready to double in the next few months in Monteverde, not far from the Liter, in a new space with a patio outside. While Champagne and fried since 2004, fill the small space of the Batter, the address of Montesacro, which serves traditional roman recipes, natural wine with a focus on Champagne, with an excellent quality/price ratio. As a Liter, and the Sori, also the Batter has decided to explore new areas of the city and in the coming months will expand its offer to Pigneto.

Epirus

Also Remigio is a reality born in 2007, between via Appia nuova and the Tuscolana, the careful selection of wines is worth the fame gained in over 10 years of activity: selection personal of French sparkling wine made in the field by Fabrizio Pagliardi and Roberto Scomazzon Galdi, with Valeria Carola, attention to small vignerons and the productions of nature. The same owners have opened Barnabas with a view of the Pyramid of Cestius in which there is a bit more wine and a little less Champagne, but always chosen in the same way, with a larger kitchen than what is proposed so far. In addition to the beautiful terrace, the wine bar stands out for its proposal to the glass – always changing – and excellent quality-price ratio. While heading towards Ostiense meets the Taverna Cestia, alternating dishes of roman good run to fish dishes, and the wine list has a good number of natural products, of which will be happy to talk to you about the enthusiastic patron Valerio Salvi.
Not far from here also a nice trattoria has its own small selection of wines, craftsmen: it is called the inn of the Brothers Died, the cuisine is roman, comfortable, suitable for a good bottle natural.

Among the most radical in the choice of the bottles there is definitely a public bar. Open to Garbatella almost six years ago has made the wine a natural vocation and his religion. Here you will find over 600 different choices from the Angel’s Consort and Mauro Lenci, accompany simple dishes, but excellent matter. Open until late at night, often become the shelter for the workers after the closing of restaurants and bars.

Asian Inn

Moving in the direction of the Coliseum, we find The Pentagrappolo that, for several years, proposes the jazz music and the natural wine. In Centocelle, instead, a well-established fact is Sins the Divine. Since 2001 he has in the paper about 400 labels of which more than half are natural wines. There are all the regions of Italy plus a fair number of names in French, Spanish and German. From the other side of the city, in the Flaminio area, two and a half years ago has found a place in the Mostò of Ciro Borriello. Here almost all of the wines are biodynamic and organic, and the paper is the same shelf where they are exposed to the bottles. There are nearly four hundred labels but in the course of the year revolve around the double. Staying to the North of Rome we find one of the best-known names related to wine “genuine”, i.e. the one of Tiziana Gallo. Always on the hunt for labels artisan, you are the creator of the event, which takes place ten years in Rome, Husbandmen, natural, with which he has renamed his wine shop near piazzale Clodio. Open for lunch and in the afternoon offers a varied assortment of wines and “sustainable”. In the map of the drinking natural should be placed also Naturavino, between Portuense and Ostiense. Born first as a distributor, and turned last year into a real wine cellar with kitchen, collects a selection of small businesses, by Calcabrina Ca’ One. Not far from the latter there is Otium Club, a popular local, who manages to settle a bit’ all with bio-wines non-extreme – chosen by the sommelier Fiammetta Graziani – and with a good price / quality ratio. Finally, last but not least in the selection of wines, it is Convenient Roscioli, the space in the centre of town dedicated to the tastings and meetings of the family Roscioli, who recently became a real bistro. Kitchen, social tables, bar-style Izakaya japanese where you can eat and drink freely, even natural.
Always in the city centre, this historic address is the Corner of the Divine. Here there are wines of every region of Italy and the “legion” of the natural is represented by about 50 different labels, including Italian, French, Georgian, slovenian and istrian.

THE LATEST ARRIVALS

As said, the map of the premises with natural wine continues to be populated. Several outposts in the city to make way for the insignia the most recent pointing on a paper craft. About a thousand, and two hundred labels, including Italian wines, French wines, austrian, slovenian, Spanish, Portuguese and germans, make up the cellar of the Wine shop Towards in the Tuscolana area is open from the end of last year. To confirm that the centre of gravity of the drinking well is shifting progressively to the South-East there are Coffee Suspended and Proofs. The first opened in Pigneto by the end of 2015. The second, instead, is the last wine bar popped up in the city – specifically, at the Centocelle – and led by Daniele Camponeschi (ex Marzipan). Also to mention Sip a Drink & Food in the area Ostiense and Fermentation of Federico Maselli (ex Cluster) to Valle Aurelia. The latter is a small wine bar with glass and beershop with plug, accommodates a few references, but of merit: a lot of Italy, a little France, and Spain.

RESTAURANTS-TAVERNS-PIZZERIAS

In the varied world of the wine “ethics” have found a place, over the years, also several restaurants. Can not be cited Epirus, restaurant curate, becoming with the passing of time excellent half gourmet. And his wine list, “radical” is no less, developed by sommelier Francesco Romanazzi, already in the room by Bulzoni and Roscioli, together with Alessandra Viscardi, a member and manager of the room. Here in the course of the years it has developed – but never definitively completed – a small and variable selection, which ranges from the regions of France to the most famous of Italy’s wine, without excluding the central area of Spain or Catalonia, with a preference for small, artisan producers who, complying with their idea of growing grapes and grape processing. Not far away another place of success is the Holy Palate. To choose from the varied selection of wines – mainly craftsmen – is the cook Sarah Cicolini: there are many Italian regions that are flanked with proposals for French, Spanish, austrian, slovenian and several in bulk. The neighborhood is also home to Barred, local, multipurpose, open a couple of years ago and drove by the brothers Palucci (also here the labels natural not lacking). Remarkable for the variety of the wine list – also the craftsmen – the refinement of the dishes and atmosphere in the neighbourhood of Monti is The Barrel. The master of the house, together with the other members, is always Fabrizio Pagliardi of Remigio, indefatigable hunter of wines and sparkling wines.

Sarah Cicolini, the chef of the Holy Palate

Inside this renaissance craftsman, is also a small restaurant from the format of the unpublished: Asian Inn Jun Ge brings together the regional cuisine of china and a large selection of wines, alternative, alongside some conventional. But this slice of the market wine is not so niche now that you can also find them in some michelin star restaurants. It is the case of the neo award-winning Tordomatto of Adriano Baldassarre. Crossing the city and reaching the suburb of Centocelle is run in the beautiful card of the Deck, the project signed The Fooders, namely, Francesca Barreca and Marco Baccanelli. In the center, instead, there is the Back room, known to the gourmet Capital for its proposal to the glass. While heading towards Monteverde here is La Gatta Mangiona. The note’s pizzeria Giancarlo Home with good pizzas and fried also offers labels natural. The last to report, but certainly not the choice of wines (indeed, it was one of the first on the Rome offer, is appreciated Cesare al Casaletto. Many labels are rare and hunted by small producers, sometimes in French, often biodynamic and natural.

Les Vignerons

WINE bars

While the plethora of addresses with the kitchen accompanied by natural wines are still a few shops that focus exclusively on these productions. Among the most interesting there is Les Vignerons, that by two she moved to Trastevere after being born in Tor Pignattara. More than a passion, that of Antonio Marino and Marisa Gabbianelli, is a real love of wine and good drink. The research is ongoing, and aims above all to Europe, with Italy, a forerunner of which is followed by France, Spain, Austria and Slovenia. Same philosophy for the beers, which are all spontaneous fermentation.
Pino Perrone and Gianluca Guidotti in 2014 have open Enobottega 75cl near the basilica of St. Paul. A small wine bar that offers a selection of wines, non-conventional, in an area of Rome, which was quite unawares, and at affordable prices. More than 350 labels, with an offer constantly updated. For the joy of those who do not like the sulfites and the like, and who is looking for small production, in the area of Montesacro, there is Organicool. This winery for six years, gathers all the research of the wines made by the owners over the years.
One of the last addresses you arrive in the city you call Solovino. This is also a wine bar that serves only wine artisans, is located near the metro and Cipro. Nice choice of labels, many of the small producers.

Rome, in short, is showing off the scale of what is happening a bit’ all over the boot. There is, in fact, among the wine-producing Countries, who have embraced the natural wine movement with a lot of conviction, like Italy. According to the data processed by the Courier, Wine, in 2016, the hectares of vineyards are up 24% compared to the previous year, and now represent 16% of all Italian vineyards. The phenomenon then spread despite no Italian law regulations. Apart from the european standards for the production of organic wine – that many believe to be inadequate and lacking – at the moment there is no regulation which clarifies what is really a wine “natural” and how it should be produced. Over the years, to fill the gap of the policy that we have thought of different associations of small producers who have decided to define the specifications to be able to be self-regulatory in the process of transformation of the grapes. A vitality that has led to the emergence of a real puzzle of associations and consortia, from Fivi, which brings together the winemakers craft, to VinNatur, from ViniVeri to TripleA. For now, then, the word “natural” remains a compromise vocabulary, and not recognized by the law, and on which we will continue to discuss a lot.

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