Not Only Peck: So The Food Shops Will Save Us From The Flattening Of The Taste
There were once the grocery stores. That before were simply trading posts, shops and general management where to find a little bit of everything, from talcum powder to the butter, until the cover for the pots on the balcony. Exactly what is now offer super and (even more) hyper. The word “market” was abandoned quickly, cannibalized by the size and vastness of the offer.
In the middle – between the emporiums all-embracing and shopping centers – there was the time of the shops, where the food could be declined according to attitude of the owner and the needs of the community, with the number and quality is directly proportional to the growth in the spending capacity. In the last ten years, the number of businesses overall fell of over one hundred thousand units, of a total near a million. Paraphrasing Gianni Morandi, one in ten do nothing. In the short term, the data are much worse, if it is true that in the first twenty-four months of opening its shutters down permanently in one case out of three.
Yet something is changing. It is not so much the perceived economic situation that make the difference – the numbers of the crisis continue to be experienced as boulders by the operators – as a slow recovery of the food culture, mixed with a new sensitivity to the gastronomic. This is the meaning of the re-birth of the old and new food shops, where the excellence does not necessarily rhyme with glitter and sequins. Of course, the risk of “anything under the dress (or very little)” it inhabits all the rooms of the commercial offer, including the food: fake farms and luxury atelier, committed, disguised as millers and aprons high fashion, mode, rural and pieces as jewelry.
But the net of the shape, which sometimes do not coincide with the substance, increases the number of craftsmen who are raising the head. We think of the dairies where to find pasture milk, cheese raw milk, yogurt, good and creamy, without tricks cream and without citric acid to preserve a raw material that is mediocre. Or the ovens where macinature stone and lievitazioni natural are not definitions blank but the choices of life and work. And then the food, and take a huge selection of products and preparation, true professionalism by Oscar of the food crafts.
Among the historical names, too easy to make the name of Peck, the glowing superbottega spread out on two blocks behind the Cathedral of Milan, born in 1883, thanks to the intuition of the butcher of prague Francis Peck . By the brothers Stoppani – to help Peck to the beginning of the 70s – the turin Maurilio Baudracco went to the boy, before opening his extraordinary Delicatessen a few steps from the Porta Nuova station in Turin, while Volpetti ago has found its fortune by bringing in the heart of Rome, the Testaccio district, the best cold cuts from where it had started, or Norcia.
The great old ones of the Italian cuisine with their self-produced first class, from the mascarpone to the salting in the vein of the hams, in the last few years, has been joined by young artisans inspired by ancient passion. In other cases, the new generations of storekeepers historians have given new life to the family business. It happens to The Tradition of Vico Equense, Napoli, the receptacle of the finest bells (and not only) turned to the children of Annamaria and Salvatore De Gennaro, an unmissable hub of food, words, meetings, and wines. Or the butcher-cult Brarda of Cavour, in the countryside, in turin, where the son-in-law and daughter have added to the meat selections the magnificent the best of piedmontese cuisine, with home-made.
Certainly, on paper the prices are neither super nor hyper. But anyone who wants to weigh the difference between a ham and healthy one inflated with the polyphosphate, or between a cheese of grazing seasoned, served with the tasty simplicity that is owed to the bocconi fine, and a cheese of the discount, would understand very well that to save money – even health – it is not those who search for the savings at the expense of quality. Word of the workshop.